Wednesday 6 July 2016

Morris Blazer the first

So a couple of weekends ago I became a bit obsessed with having a cute little summer jacket, something that would act as a coverup without being very hot. I also decided that I wanted it to be a bit different from the standard 'blazer' which I have been wearing since university (that's a long time ago), and so only a Morris Blazer would do.

I eagerly logged into Grainline Studio's website and downloaded the PDF version (otherwise I was going to have to wait quite a while for it to turn up... Got busy with the Prit Stick and ploughed on into the project.


And boy do I have some good things to say about this blazer (and maybe one or two not so good). The whole thing from cutting to finished can be done in a day (with no toilet breaks and only Mikado as food) and the instructions generally very good. I did get a bit stuck on the step which tells you to sew the neck facing to the hem facing... Couldn't work out which way round it should sit. A few people have had this problem though and it turns our none of us figured out to unfold the ironed down hem... Doh!

But the collar part...which I thought would be difficult... Was an absolute breeze.

I decided to make a wearable muslin from some navy cotton twill I had lying around in my stash. I know, I know, it says very clearly in the pattern that you should use something with a bit of stretch to it. Well I said pooh pooh to that and did my own thing.... And yeah, it says stretch for a reason, this jacket is a bit snug over the shoulders.


But it's loose everywhere else so that's fine right? I promise next time to use something with a bit of give in it. But that leads me onto the big issue I had with this jacket. I made it up in a size 6 - so a UK 10. But the sleeves were tiny!! I could barely get them up past my elbows!! By measuring the pattern pieces and my upper arm (taking into account seam allowances obviously) I had to cut a whopping size 10 sleeve!! That's UK 14 people!! What the hell Grainline?! I know my upper arms are a bit chunky, but seriously?
I have tried to tell myself that this is because of the lack of stretch in the fabric, but I may still also size up for my next version, and the body on this already feels big enough.


I will work something out. I can't stay mad at you Grainline, I really love this jacket!!

I also decided that it might be nice to underline this fabric to give it more slide on my clothes, so I cut out the body and sleeves in a lovely spotty lining fabric, sewed them together separately, and basted them to the outer... I think it looks really professional...


And for my close up...


Lookit lookit... No raw edges showing!!

By interlining the jacket it meant that I could sew down the facings, which are just meant to hang loose... Which I don't get...


And check out that top stitching... I'm really quite proud of myself.


So to sum up....
Pattern: Morris Blazer from Grainline Studios
Size: Size 6 body and 10 sleeves
Modifications: non stretch fabric and a spot of interlining
Fabric: Navy Cotton twill from my stash
Star rating: ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ (you lost a star for those tight sleeves)
Re-sewability: Absolutely... Stretch cotton already on order!
Wearability: Even though it is a little snug over the shoulders it is very wearable... I even got a compliment from a random stranger in the Metro station (which sounds creepier than it was).







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